Thursday, August 18, 2016

Ura-Dashi/Tapping out the blade


So after using dremel and sandpaper to grind down the ear of the blade until it fits in the mouth...

Time for my first try at ura-dashi/tapping out



Here's my ura-dashi layout.

-Hickory log, smooth on the top
 -tiny cross-pein 
-blades
-Tablet playing Iron and Wine



A minute in: 


Nice! I don't want to go overboard. Just gotta get a good feel for the process first. 


Now to follow Jason's advice: Grinded the offending side on 80 grit for a while. 


Then put the full blade on, with the pressure still on the offending side. 

Then proceeding from 80, 150, 220, 400 sandpaper; 800 waterstone; 1000 waterstone; 6000 grit to finish up. 


Not hanging on it's bevel...yet.


Sloppy camera work, sloppy bevel...

But how does it work? 


Translucent shavings...but the board isn't flat, so it isn't taking perfect shavings. 

But...just to show how well the chipbreaker is working now that it's fitted...Those shavings were taken against the grain. No tearout. 


                                                           taking thicker shavings, it's working well!


Still a really great polish, even from thick shavings, and no sight so far of the tracks....



On pine...Chipbreaker is working much better. Not only preventing tearout but curling and shooting out shavings perfectly, except when my hands are in the way. 

Also...translucent shavings in pine are solid shavings in cherry.  I blame the widely different growth rings in pine. 



Pretty darn square! Either that or my cheap square is out of square! 


I didn't add tape yet. It's working pretty well, though. Big thing was it turns out the whole reason why I couldn't adjust the blade was the blade was too wide for the mouth...

Now it's still not perfectly even, pretty close, but I can adjust the blade now, and that makes a huge difference. A few more sharpenings with the pressure on the right side will soon make it perfect, I think. 

And I think another round of tapping out, too...The line was thicker at the beginning but all the grinding back has it once more thin. The hollow is starting to look like a pinched-off pot, though...

Thanks to Jason for his comments, his blog posts on ura-dashi, and also to D and M King's blog posts on tapping out! 

Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Kanna trouble...


So I made a quick basswood practice box.

And my dovetails are really getting better, at least in forgiving wood.

But what caused the few gaps that were there?
1. I inserted the walnut bottom and it was slightly too big, wedging some of the bottom dovetails slightly apart. 

And then:

2. None of my pieces were perfectly uniform, causing some problems.




Part of the problem is my laziness and desire to just churn out a box in 20 minutes. 

Part of it is my slowly burgeoning skills with planes not being perfect yet.

And part of it is my kanna. 

My kanna is a cheap student's kanna. I thought it would have no problems and would be easy to learn on.

Well, it's still pretty awesome. It still cuts translucent shavings and makes awesome looking surfaces. I have learned a ton and I'm glad I didn't waste money on an auction only to get a bad tool, or a tool that needed too much work for a beginner.

However this kanna has problems. 

First can be seen in that picture: The blade is too wide for the mouth.

The second is a huge problem, and since I flattened the bevel and made it straight and even again, the problem has only gotten worse:

The blade takes slanted cuts. If I'm not careful, the wood ends up like this: /. At a much shallower angle, that is. 


I've had the plane for a year so I feel like I can now safely alter the kanna without worrying about it being screwed up in the next seasonal change.

So the side that the blade protrudes the most on, I removed the wood that was stained black from the paint-stuff that the blade is covered in to look similar to a forge finish. 

Now the blade is loose...but the slant is still there.

It's still there with two pieces of paper in the other side.

No amount of tapping the blade on the left side will get the blade to even out on the right.

I'm about to be just completely overwhelmed...and kind of want to buy a new kanna...

but Dammit, this kanna still takes translucent shavings! I just need to fix it!

If anyone has any advice, that'd be awesome. I might try grinding the side that's too wide and see if that fixes anything.